The Zapatista Murals of Chiapas, Mexico
by Betty LaDuke
The legacy of Mexican mural painting by the legendary artists Rivera,
Orozco, and Sisqueros has always been to engage the hearts and souls of
both the illiterate campesinos and the urban elites. Their visual
symbols and stories, composed of vibrant brush strokes of color and
form fill many monumental walls of government buildings and schools in
rural and urban communities. They present a history from the
pre=Columbian and colonial past to the recent pride in Mexico's
indigenous roots, varied cultural heritage, and stubborn resistance to
exploitation. Now a new generation of artists continues this legacy in
Chiapas.
During our 2003 "Land and Liberty" tour sponsored by Global Exchange,
it was intriguing to see familiar as well as new symbols that have
evolved in response to the Mayan people's current struggle against the
corporate usurpation of their lands and resources. Visitors to the
Zapatista highland community of Oventic are greeted by a spectacular
series of murals that cover the community food store, the public health
clinic, elementary and secondary schools, and a rambling old cattle
barn now converted to a community meeting center.
Passing through the
barn door to meet with the Oventic village representatives of the
schools, health clinic, and shoe factory was like a rite of passage. We
entered under the dominating gaze of Emiliano Zapata, the 1910
revolutionary leader of the land reform movement. However, now sharing
the barn wall with the Zapata is the portrait of a Mayan woman with a
traditional red bandanna across her face so that only her eyes are
exposed. The graffiti beside the read, "La mujer valiente es el corazon
de la libertad" (At the heart of liberty is a valiant woman.")
Following the theme of the "valiant woman," a school mural
features a mother defending her family and community with only her
hands as a weapon as she pushes back the attack of an armed soldier. In
another barn mural, she is portrayed as a Zapatista fighter standing
parallel with Zapata. Her identity is concealed by pants and a ski
mask. In her hand she holds a rifle to defend her community from attack
by the paramilitary or by government soldiers.
A different theme emphasizing the importance of education for
women is presented in a mural that stretches across a newly constructed
interior classroom wall. This secondary school was built by volunteers
from Mexico City. It portrays a dream-like image of a young girl
holding a book. One side of the book cover portrays the brutality of
colonization, and the other depicts the determined resistance of
Zapatistas campesinos. The girl's hands, book, and face are
surrealistically framed by her long, blue hair that flows horizontally
across the wall like ocean waves.
I recall the Oventic's school coordinator who told us:
"Education should train students to think for themselves, to understand
the reason for our struggle ... to unite our voices against the
globalization of poverty."
Corn is life to the indigenous people of Chiapas and therefore
the land must be honored and protected. In many murals stalks of corn
are innovatively portrayed. Within the corn, each kernel i recreated as
a face covered by a black ski mask, the symbol of Zapatista commitment.
The Zapatista murals can be serious symbolic and humorous.
They vary in style from stark black outlines of forms to the brilliant
blending of colors that makes a group of women wearing ski masks, as
portrayed on the facade of Oventic health clinic, seem like a flower
garden of joy and hope.
During our Zapatista village visits my sketchbook was a
constant companion. I rapidly sketched my impressions which the
villagers were eager to see. Later in my Ashland, Oregon studio these
pen and ink drawings became the catalysts for large symbolic paintings
including "Zapatista Weaver" and "Chiapas Sunrise." Copies were then
sent to Global Tours to share with those whose life experiences and
resistance to oppression had inspired my work. |